Sandal aficionados worldwide are turning their gaze to the upcoming debut of Birkenstock on the New York Stock Exchange. As the IPO market gradually reopens after a subdued period, Birkenstock joins the ranks of high-profile listings, following in the footsteps of companies like Arm, Instacart, and Kellanova, the Kellogg spinoff, which have faced post-IPO share price challenges.
However, the road ahead for Birkenstock presents unique opportunities and hurdles, with investors and analysts closely examining the brand’s strategy to appeal to new shoppers amid a cost-of-living crisis. The footwear industry, grappling with recent price hikes, anticipates modest growth, with worldwide sales projected to rise by just 2.9% over 2022.
One of the immediate questions is how Birkenstock plans to create desirability for consumers to invest in their products, particularly during times of economic strain. Sandals, being a seasonal item, introduce volatility into the company’s sales throughout the year. However, Birkenstock possesses enduring allure, having transcended its initial reputation for comfort over aesthetics. Its adaptability to evolving fashion trends, especially the growing preference for casual attire, has sustained its popularity. The company has successfully rebranded itself as a fashionable choice endorsed by models and celebrities. Notably, Margot Robbie, playing Barbie, sported a pink pair of Birkenstocks in a recent film, cementing the brand’s iconic status.
Birkenstock’s ability to align with consumer preferences for health, comfort, and sustainability has underpinned its modernization and continued growth. The company’s IPO plan includes the sale of at least 32 million shares, priced between $44 and $49 each, with the potential to raise approximately $1.58 billion. Proceeds from the IPO are earmarked for debt reduction, while further expansion remains on the horizon.
The company’s strong position in the U.S. market allows it to navigate cost increases effectively, offering reassurance to investors. Birkenstock’s continued expansion into the direct-to-consumer sales channel is essential to attract more customers, especially in a retail landscape where some major players have reduced their shoe orders. Despite having 6,000 wholesale partners in fiscal 2022, the company operates a relatively small network of approximately 45 boutiques as of June 30. With a range of new products, including slides, leather sandals, and boots, Birkenstock’s U.S. website has witnessed a surge in unique visits, up by around 26.4% compared to the same period last year.
In contrast, some competitors, such as Golden Goose, Dr. Martens, and Allbirds, have experienced declines in website visits in recent months. While the back-to-school season has presented challenges for the U.S. footwear sector, Birkenstock’s agility in adapting to consumer preferences positions it favorably.
While Birkenstock enters the IPO arena alongside other footwear companies, some of which have seen their market value decline since going public, it enjoys support from prominent investors. Alexandre Arnault, son of LVMH Chairman Bernard Arnault, will join its board, and LVMH-backed private equity firm L Catterton, which currently owns the entire company, will maintain an 83% stake post-IPO. Additionally, funds managed by Durable Capital Partners LP and Norges Bank Investment Management have expressed interest in acquiring shares, totaling $300 million.
Despite the backing of luxury sector heavyweights, Birkenstock faces uncertainties inherent in the stock market journey. The history of shoe companies going public offers mixed outcomes, and investor confidence remains a variable. As Birkenstock prepares to step onto the trading floor, the path to success is marked by both potential and unpredictability.
